I have decided to make a wooden mounting plate to hold the lens down and give me something to bed it into. I cut inside hole to roughly the right size with a manual coping saw and sanded with 50 grit wrapped wrapped around a hammer. I cut the outside edges with a wood saw and sanded the entire thing down with 120 grit. After several coats of varnish with sanding in between it is ready to mount!
I will be bedding the lens and the mount to the cabin with Life-Calk bedding compound. I chose this product because it is specifically recommended for glass, wood and fiberglass. The trade off is that it takes 7 days to fully cure, 4200 fast cure would have sped up the process but it is specifically NOT recommended for use on glass. I taped off the edge of the lens and the edge of the mounting plate with painters tape to keep it tidy. It is held in place to dry by a couple thin strips of wood shimmed with washers to keep it from slipping down the cabin, and by a suction cup from the inside to pull it against the boat.
The finished product came out very well. I did wind up getting some life calk on the mounting plate, with a little sanding and another coat of varnish it will look good as new. Next time I will tape off my entire project, no gaps.
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Ship to Shore offers spreader lights from Rigid Industries, Dr. Led, Lumitech and Sea Dog Line. The lights I chose operate at 18 watts each which equates to 1.5 amps at 12 volts, 18 AWG wire will work for both lights in this application.
Parts & Components / Procedure
I will be using a low profile Sea Dog Cable Cam for the thru-deck seal and grommets where the wire enters and exits the mast to prevent chafe. I will split the primary duplex wire with step down but connectors to power both sets of lights. They will bolt onto my spreaders with a couple 5/16 mounting holes and the included hardware. I chose my favorite low profile Cole Hersee switch to control the lights and a dimmer.
My strategy for running the wire inside the mast is as follows. Halcyon's mast has no access hole at the moment, so I will drill an access 1 inch in diameter about 6 inches above the foot of the mast. I will drill a 5/16 pilot hole for the wire just below the access and file it by hand to fit the grommet exactly (I don't have a 3/8" drill bit). I will then run a wire snake down from the exit hole at the spreaders and feed the wire back up. Practice makes perfect installing the tiny grommets around the wire. I have found that placing them in some warm soapy water before installing makes the whole process much easier; the grommets I bought are quite stiff and hard to fit. It was also necessary to cut them along one edge to slip them over the wire and seat them in the mast. The wire is supported on the spreaders by several cable clips in sequence with moderate tension on each, the rest of the wiring is also clipped down to the spreaders.
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I failed to take pictures of my complete steps installing this toilet. This blog post is going to be a reflection on what went wrong and what I would have done differently next time. One of the issues I encountered was getting the hose to bend the way I wanted without putting pressure on connections and thru-hulls. Sanitation hose can be stiff and stubborn, especially in the larger diameter sizes required for plumbing toilets. Both bending it, and getting it to seat over barbed fittings can be a challenge. There are a couple methods that I used to bend it to my will; some with greater success than others. The first method I tried involved dipping the hose in hot water for a few seconds at a time. This worked for softening the hose but wound up getting it too hot; I buckled a section and had to cut it off the barbed fittings (twice.) I used a hair dryer for the remainder of the bends and that seemed to be just the right amount of heat to get the hose soft for bending and seating over barbed fittings, but not hot enough to kink.
The toilet I decided to go with is a JAB 29090-3000 manual toilet with a compact bowl. I had installed this toilet in my old boat without a hitch; this installation was a different kind of beast. The only problem I has with the actual toilet was with the discharge port on the base of the pump. The first time I ran the hose I made too sharp of a bend from the nipple on the discharge to the Y-Valve. This torqued the discharge and the joker valve out of position enough to cause a leak. The second time I pivoted the nipple to a better angle and used the 2 coarse thread screws on the pump to torque the fitting on really well. I heated and worked the hose a bit more so it would conform to the bend. However, I used the same hose that the fittings had already stretched out and put it on backwards causing another leak. -The first seal you make with a new hose is the best one. So I bought a new chunk of hose and heated it with the same procedure, this time I used a drill to impact drive the hose clamps really tight around the warm hose. After it cooled it held perfectly with zero leakage. Phew!
The other main problem I had was with pumping out the contents of my holding tank. A lot of boats produced in the 60's didn't come with holding tanks; waste was simply pumped into the water. I have an "after the fact" 5 gallon holding tank that was installed under the closet just forward of the head. Great positioning close to the head, but mistakes can mean very stinky clothes. limited space also necessitated a 90 degree barbed fitting on the pump-out hose. This meant that upon trying to pump out it was completely clogged, zero flow. I poured some digester into the deck fitting and topped it off with some warm water. Two days later I tried to pump out again with no luck, but luckily I had a backup plan. An $8 toilet snake from Home Depot with the 90 degree plastic housing sawed off took care of the clog in no time! I will just have to stow that on board for future clogs. Gradual curves are always preferable to 90 degree bends when planning a route for your sanitation system, unfortunately this one was unavoidable in this tank location.
When I removed the old system I discovered that the gate valve on my discharge thru hull had fouled leaving about a 1/4 inch gap with the valve all the way closed. Water started coming in as soon as I gave the old barbed fitting a turn to loosen. I covered the valve with my hand and opened it all the way, then removed my hand and quickly plugged the hole with a pine plug. The thru-hull is plastic on my boat so I had to be extra careful not to crack it or disturb the sealant when removing the old valve. I had a friend thread the old valve off while I held the thru hull from the outside with a thru hull step wrench. Then plugged the thru hull from the outside and sealed the new gate valve on with Teflon tape. Bilge was completely full from that ordeal.
I couldn't find a whole lot of information about actual experiences using a vented loop with these toilets. The idea is that if any part of your toilet falls below the water line while the boat is heeled or at rest, you need a vented loop above the waterline to keep water from siphoning into the boat, the instructions for the toilet are a bit confusing. The toilet has a lockout feature that is designed as a secondary defense against this, however Jabsco makes it clear that the right way to do the installation includes a vented loop. I didn't have the space or the desire to include one in my system. For me, my thru hull valves and the toilet safety features are enough re-assurance that I am going to be able to stop any water coming in before it causes damage. My toilet rests just above the waterline, since completion I have gone sailing and thrown the toilet at least a few feet below the waterline with zero leakage. I will rest easy without my vented loop, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't give it some serious consideration before you tackle your system.
The next time I tamper with this toilet will be in a few years to replace the joker valve as preventative maintenance. Very happy this project is done for the moment. Hope this was helpful!
]]>The newer generation of these light strips have a 3M sticky adhesive back which is essentially useless for permanent adhesion on a boat. I have found that another 3M product, "Command Flat Cord Clips" product code 17305-CLR work perfectly in combination with some 4200 fast cure. This renders the lights completely removable, while the 3M clips are clear and discrete.
The only thing that makes this instillation a little more challenging is finding the correct spaces to run the wires forward while hiding everything well and maintaining serviceability. I don't pretend to be a master designer of electrical systems, but the basic guidelines that I am aware of include avoiding the bilge, and being aware of heat caused by the engine. With these in mind I will be running the wire out of the battery compartment in the starboard side quarter berth and through the engine room to the port side quarter berth. From there I will need to go through a couple stowage compartments and both main bulkheads in Halcyon.
I used Ancor "but connector splitters" to power both sets of lights from the same main duplex wire. Here are the rest of the materials and connectors that I used.
!
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There are several different basic composite hull structures that boats use. In the fiberglass world, there are double hulls and single hulls. Double hulls form an extra watertight barrier so that even if the outer hull is penetrated, the inner hull will be able to keep the ocean out. Single hull boats only have one layer of hull structure. Because of the different properties of these hull designs, different mounting techniques must be used for various components in the boat.
There are numerous ways to mount an inverter to the inside of the hull, for my single hulled Cal 34 I decided to repeat a mounting design that was successful on my last boat, a Cal 27. This process involves Making a mounting bracket that can be adhered to the inner hull. A flat panel is impractical for adhering to a curved hull shape, so this technique involves adding small blocks to the back of the panel, which can more easily be shaped to form a strong bond with the curved hull.
While it may present no issue mounting the inverter directly to a single hull with short screws. This hull design presents other problems for electronics specifically. There is less material between the hull and the water, so single hulls often feel the effects of the cold water around them more than doubles. Mounting warm electronics on a cold hull is a recipe for condensation. Mounting on a bracket allows for ample airflow against the hull and controls any moisture buildup that may damage your electronics.
Materials
For the bracket I chose to use a 6-ply 1/2" marine plywood for the panel and a 1-1/2" x 1" length of soft pine for my blocks. The main drawback to using wood in this application is the risk of rot. Even with a proper sanding and some kind of sealant, the potential for rot is there. To avoid this risk completely some people resort to "marine lumber." Available in white or black and constructed out of a high-density polyethylene that is easily shaped with standard woodworking tools, this is essentially a fool proof material with no chance of rot or degradation. The only disadvantage that marine lumber carries is that it can be unsightly, marine lumber sticks out like a sore thumb in a boat with wood decor. My last bracket was constructed out of wood and sealed with multiple coats of polypropylene for a clean durable look. It showed no signs of rot or wear on an incredibly damp boat over the winter. I will be mounting this panel on the wall of my starboard side quarter berth, as close to the batteries and as out of the way as possible.
My Steps (Wooden Construction)
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My patching project began when I purchased an older Caribe C8 Hypalon RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat.) I was made aware by the seller prior to purchase that there was a rather large gash on the underside of the right pontoon.
Some things you will need!
We sell Clifton brand glue, a 4oz kit is plenty for most repairs and costs $29.95 + tax for either material.
We stock 6x18" sections of fabric available for $9.95 +tax
Chip brushes are available for as little as $1.05 for the smallest size
Project Accessories to make your project easier!
Procedure
The biggest mistakes that I made in this project were as follows;
Use plenty of glue in thin layers! The glue is going to seal the leak, not the Hypalon/PVC. The patch only serves to protect the glue from the elements.
Applying pressure to the patch and smoothing out the air bubbles is a critical step in the process. If air bubbles are trapped, the glue will not cure to form an airtight seal and you may wind up with a slow leaking patch job.
If you followed all of the instructions, congratulations! You should have a tender that holds air and cruises in style!
]]>*** all products in photo are available in-store or click HERE ***
It is a good idea to change motor oil before winter. Warm up the engine so that the oil will drain more completely. Give the cooling system a fresh water rinse using a flushing port. Drain and refill the oil; replace filters.
Electric space heaters often provide an economical source of dry heat for boat cabins. Some modern ones designed for homes are reasonably safe to use, even on a boat. But every year there are many boat fires caused by electric space heaters and shore power systems being pushed to their limits in place of proper winterization procedures. It may pay to give both your 12V and 110 systems an inspection before winter. Here are a few things you should look for:
Mitigate risk of any fire by owning several strategically placed fire extinguishers. Be wary of space heaters.
If you anticipate freezing temperatures over the winter, it may be advisable to "anti-freeze" your cooling system. Water expands up to 9% when it freezes which can be damaging to an engine. Begin by flushing out any salt water with the appropriate flush kit of muffs. Then using the intake hose circulate non-toxic anti-freeze through the system until it comes out the exhaust.
The appropriate fuel additive can mean the difference between life and death for your engine. Ethanol gasolines (E10) can start absorbing water in as little as 30 days.
Truth be told, there is no product that can prevent the absorption of water by alcolines. Fuel additives just help mitigate the side effects and prevent damage to your motor. Additives are critical in preventing things like:
No, it’s not to fix your foggy windows (although we’ve got something for that as well). Fogging oil is useful in outboards, inboards, 2-stroke and 4-stroke. As an engine sits, oil and lubricants are no longer circulated to critical components and gravity compounds the problem over time. Depending on your motor, fogging oil can be sprayed inside cylinders, air intakes, carburetors and other fuel components to create a residue that will stay put while the engine is idle; preventing corrosion, rust and other calamities that will wreak havoc in your motor
]]>Adding a bilge pump to a kayak is certainly not a need, rather it is a carefully chosen addition that can add safety, convenience and a certain ‘wow’ factor that is hard to beat. Best of all it that this is an approachable project, one that is fairly easy both on the financial end and the practical end.
The reasons are as follows:
The things to look for in a kayak bilge pump are:
There have been a few systems commercially produced but always on a limited scale and at very high costs. And there are none remaining that I am aware of.
My entire project cost about: $180.00 including the cost of the battery, after tax and all the sundries. I have included costs for all the items we sell (all but the battery) at our prices.
For reasons of simplicity I decided wanted an ‘auto’ pump that would not require adding a switch. The most common installation is to use a manual pump and use a magnet actuated reed switch. While this When I made this decision it severely limited my options, and I nearly gave up until one of our technical representatives showed us the Rule “LoPro” series.
Hallelujah! This is a 900 gallon per hour, submersible, automatic pump with a solid state switch and a rotatable outlet to fit tight spaces (Rule LP900S: Not a float switch that would not do so well in the possible inverted situations us kayakers sometimes find ourselves in. While this switching does have a tiny power draw even when it is ‘off’ it is worth the simplicity of the system.
(Rule ‘LoPro LP900S’ $65.78 here at the store)
Step 1: Figure out where to mount the pump.
Because my Eddyline Raven has a track along the floor of the cockpit for the seat to slide along for adjustment, my options to mount it behind the seat were limited.
But with the low draw-down height on the LoPro it is possible to mount it at the front bulkhead and still get enough water evacuated to be practical. Because the sensor is in the red section of the pump I wanted to mount it longitudinally; running along the centerline.
Step 2: Figure out how to mount the pump and battery box.
As Eddyline kayaks are ABS type plastic I decided to use 3M “5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant”. Which is an extremely strong adhesive sealant, one that we often advise customers is ‘permanent’. Well, permanent is what I want for this install. ($9.71 for a 1oz. tube).
Mounting the pump to the floor was fairly straightforward. Be certain the pad eyes and the floor of the kayak are absolutely CLEAN!!! I used denatured alcohol for this as it evaporates almost instantly and leaves no residue.
Put a small amount of '5200' on a nylon pad eye (Sea-Dog ‘Eye Straps’: $2.15 for a pack of 5 here at Ship To Shore and stick it to the floor. I used small pieces of 3M masking tape to hold them in place.
The mounting location will be different for every kayak model. But the pump is flexible in its mounting locations so I believe it can work for most boats.
For the battery box I used a Pelican ‘1050 Micro Case’ box ($27.75). Because I mounted this to the forward bulkhead I used stainless machine screws and locking nuts with a little 3M ‘Marine Grade Silicone Sealant’ ($13.79 for a 3oz. package) to secure another nylon pad eye and seal it.
For all the attachment points I used small loops of shock cord (black or white in several sizes, sold by the foot) and then used 3M ‘Scotch Bundling Straps’ ($3.51 for a 6 pack).
I did a mock-up prior to any permanent gluing or fastening of course!
Step 3: Drill/cut some holes!!!
Okay, confession time. Because I did not have a drill bit large enough for the thru-hull, AND I was in a hurry I drilled a small hole, and then used a coping saw blade to cut the circle. Following this I used a file to smooth off the inevitable rough edges.
However, I would recommend using a forstner bit. Drill until the point comes through and then finish it off from the backside.
Use plenty of masking tape to prevent scratches. Mark your hole carefully, you don’t want to get this wrong . . .
After making sure it fit without any issues I masked the entire surrounding area and sealed it in place with plenty of ‘5200’. Clean any bits immediately as they will be permanent once they dry.
Masking tape is your friend here! Don’t skimp.
This is also a good time to drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wire gland. I used an Ancor ‘Wire Seal For Duplex & Triplex Cable’ ($11.96 for one). And I used a forstner bit on this one. So much easier!
I also drilled the battery box to accept another glad for the wire. I used another Ancor wire seal.
Use plenty of masking tape and again work the point of the bit through from one side and then carefully back from the other. The plastic can be brittle and you don’t want to shatter the lid of your box.
It is worth pointing out that you can simply drill a hole large enough for your wires and then permanently glue them in with ‘5200’ or less permanently with something else. I chose to use wire gland seals to I could remove the wires and pump without hassle at any time.
To make certain the glands were water-tight on an uncovered triple wire I squeezed a little silicone into the seal, and around the threads when I installed it through the bulkhead and the box.
Step 4: Put it all into place.
After installing give the ‘5200’ no less than 7 days to fully cure. If you don’t and you pull on those pad eyes you carefully glued in they will pull off and you will have to start again. I killed a week by going on vacation :-p
After vacation I got all the pieces together and spent a morning putting it all into place.
Using the Velcro to secure the pump into place was a little challenging as the space inside the footwell of a kayak is not the biggest space. It is much easier to secure the bilge hose to the pump before mounting it.
Putting the kayak on work stands, upside down worked pretty well when it's about waist high you can wriggle your torso all the way into the boat for the finer touch bits.
This I learned through trial and error.
Because the ‘LoPro’ pumps come with a tricuspid one-way valve you probably don’t need a loop to prevent backflow but I decided to be on the safe side and did it anyways. If this ends up being unnecessary I will remove the loop and plump it straight to the thru-hull.
Now is also the time to put the wires through the glands (sealing with a little silicone inside the gland) and tighten them down. It is also a good time to mount the battery box and put eh wires through. I added another velcro strap to hold the bilge hose in place to itself.
Step 5: Wire it up.
Because we are using an automatic pump the wiring is really simple, as is battery selection.
The sky really is the limit when it comes to batteries and you can go with anything so long as it is sealed, 12 volt and can be used in any orientation. I ended up using a cordless drill battery simply because I had one available, but I would suggest going this route.
These will be either NiCad or lithium batteries which have hugely more capacity than a sealed lead acid battery and they have convenient packaging and no hassle chargers.
I used a ‘Black & Decker’ 12 volt cordless drill battery model HPB12. This battery will cost you $36.99 from Ace Hardware or any other general hardware store. (any battery you use will need to be 12V to work) Black & Decker HPB12
You can use any battery type, and using a lithium battery will give you a lot more power and a lot less weight. I might go with a lithium battery in the future but this works well for now.
I used standard marine grade spade connectors that fit right on the battery contacts. And best of all it fits perfectly in the Pelican box.
When wiring you need to follow the instructions for ‘auto’ function. This means you will have one wire that is not used. Simply cover over the end (a butt terminal crimped on works great to protect the wire).
Step 6: Make sure it works.
After it was all wired it was time to give it a test run and . . .
It worked flawlessly!
So far I have emptied the entire cockpit full of water at least 10 times and the battery shows no signs of needing a charge. Realistically if it gives me 20 full cockpits emptied that would be enough, but I think I will get even more than that.
Also, it pumps enough water that the amount left in the boat is negligible.
All in all it was a satisfying and enjoyable project and a fun way to customize my boat.
A few notes after playing with it for a bit:
The outlet hose works best when it is coming vertically off the pump. In the horizontal orientation it seems to have trouble building up enough water for the impeller to function as well. With the hose outlet vertical it starts pumping sooner with less air.
Also, I ended up shortening the outlet hose to as short as it can be to make the bend. The large loop of hose and the check valve ended up restricting flow needlessly.
Hopefully this was interesting and informative. Shoot me an email with any questions and or comments and I would love to see any installs that you do.
Barry Walstead - Assistant Manager
Ship To Shore Marine
barry@shiptoshoremarine.com
253-858-6090
3315 Harborview Dr.
Gig Harbor WA
98332
]]>We were seeing dripping from the hatch above the head on our Catalina 30, so we took a closer look at the hatch above decks. We could see a void in the caulking around the hatch, so decided it was time to re-bed the hatch. Having never done this before, I called upon the expertise of Jim Knapp, of Kula Marine in Gig Harbor.
Here is the list of tools you will need:
Here is a list of products you will need:
Instructions: